Pecking Order in Hens -
Dealing with Aggressive Poultry by
Katie Thear
Part 1 of 4
Problems of aggression may be specifically related
to cockerels but feather pecking is a habit that females may also
indulge in. There are many factors that play a part in aggressive
behaviour and it is appropriate to look at these in turn.
Pecking Order - The Top Bird
The pecking order is a well-defined hierarchical pattern of behaviour
that manifests in flocks. There is a 'top bird' to which the rest
will defer, often giving way at the food container or generally getting
out of the way.
The top bird is often a cock, but in the absence of a male, an old
hen may hold the position. She may continue to hold sway even if
there is a male, if he happens to be young and nervous.
The pecking order extends downwards (just as it does in human societies),
with the weakest having to survive as best as they can, dodging the
onslaughts of the more powerful. The pecking order may also extend
sideways, with a previously untouched bird being attacked if, for
example, it becomes ill or sustains a wound that attracts the unwanted
attention of the other birds.
Introducing New Hens to the Flock
Where new birds are introduced to an existing flock, there are always
problems because the natural pecking order is disrupted. A hen spotting
a newcomer will utter a single warning croak that alerts the rest
of the flock. It then becomes fair game to peck at and chase away
the stranger.
Traditional advice has always been to avoid mixing flocks, not only
because of the pecking order but also to avoid the possibility of
disease transference. If it is absolutely necessary to introduce
new birds to an existing flock they should be penned in a temporary
area next to the run so that they can be seen but not harmed.
It will be necessary to have a separate shelter for them during
this period, which may be around 1-2 weeks. Placing the food for
each set of birds on either side of the boundary is quite effective
because it has them in close proximity, feeding rather than sparring,
and all the time getting used to each other.
Once the birds are taking each other for granted, they can be amalgamated,
but a careful watch needs to be kept for potential problems.
Disorientation Programme
If there are still difficulties, a programme of disorientation can
be introduced. This is where the original flock is put in the temporary
run, while the new birds are put in the original quarters. I found
this technique very effective some years ago, when introducing Marans
to a Rhode Island Red flock. Because of the changeover, they were
all in new conditions and adapted accordingly.
If there is a particularly aggressive hen, it may be a good idea
to separate her and put her in a temporary pen where she can be seen
by the rest of the flock. I once had to do this with a Light Sussex
matriarch who was really throwing her weight around, particularly
towards my Silkies. It was extraordinary how quickly she adapted
and was reintroduced successfully after only three days.
Commercial Flock Beak Trimming
In most commercial flocks, birds are beak-trimmed so that they are
less able to do damage to each other. The procedure is to trim the
pointed tip of the upper mandible of the beak and is normally done
before young birds are sold. I dislike the practice because,
although it does stop pecking damage, it also means that the bird
is unable to snip off the tips of young grass shoots or glean effectively
on range.
Detering Attacks
Applying a nasty tasting substance onto the area of plumage being
pecked often deters an attacker. Poultry suppliers usually sell suitable
products for this purpose. The traditional one is Stockholm tar.
Gentian violet spray can also be effective. I once used a few squirts
of antiseptic kitchen spray - the sort used on kitchen work surfaces – because
I didn"t have anything else to hand, and it worked.
Bit Rings
There are plastic bit rings available. The ends of these can be
clipped into the nostrils of the beak so that the rest of the ring
is in the hen’s mouth. In this way, the beak cannot be completely
closed, although eating and drinking are still possible.
Again, I dislike anything that affects normal behaviour, although
I can see the value of using a bit ring temporarily until the aggressive
pecking habit has been broken. I would be against using it as a permanent
measure.
I should add, however, that I have never used bit rings, but I was
interested to hear from someone who has. He fitted them to some of
his Lakenvelders and Welsummers and found that the birds soon got
used to them.
At first, all was well and he was delighted with the re-growth
of feathers on the attacked birds, but after eight days a canny chicken
worked out how to get round it and reverted to her bad ways. "She
discovered that a beak bit is no problem when presented with an eighth
of an inch thick emerging feather shaft. I now realise that if a
bird is unable to use the tip of its beak because it is fitted with
a bit to prevent total closure, it simply uses a deeper bite and
uses the ring itself as a substitute upper beak.”
Who says that chickens are bird-brained?
Part Two covers Aggression in the Male Bird (Cockerel) >>
Dealing with Aggression in Poultry
- Aggressive Poultry -
The Pecking Order in Hens
- Aggressive
Poultry - Male Aggression (Cockerels)
- Aggressive
Poultry - Which
Breeds - Genetic Tendencies, Docile Breeds of Chickens
- Aggressive
Poultry - Environment,
Health & Condition Effects on Aggression
Article Copyright © Katie Thear 2006 |
